The cold spreads up through my feet and i shiver as I stand surveying the waves gently rolling in. The darkness envelopes me and my board and I'm re-thinking my decision to leave my warm bed. I catch a glimpse of the end of a perfect right hander and a ball of excitement bounces at the core of me. A silhouette drops in and rides up along the face of the wave before turning and getting swallowed whole. The ball starts to fizz inside of me. My feet are burning from the cold and I decide to forego my usual stretching routine and jog to the shoreline and put my feet in the water. The initial reprieve on my feet is taken over when the cold hits me and I rapidly put on my ankle strap and dive into the water, paddling hard to warm up.
I sit out the back and catch my breath and a feeling of awe and serenity overcomes me. The beautiful deep blue spreads until it touches the horizon, blending into clouds and gentle light. I can hear the crash of waves behind me and I can't imagine a more perfect place to be. I feel whole.
Paddling easily, I glance back over my shoulder as I move toward the wave, feeling the pull slowly build up. I pick up the pace and start to feel the fizz inside of me grow. I can feel the perfection of where I am and the wave forming behind me and I paddle with the wave as it crests. I'm up and standing and moving with the water, and along it and I'm playing and I can feel the smile on my face. The ball of excitement inside me has grown and feels like it's about to explode out of me. I turn back sharply and lose my balance and dive into the wave. It keeps moving without me. My head pops up out of the water and the delight shines from my eyes. I'm on my board and paddling back out again, getting ready for the next wave, my heart beating hard and my face lit up with happiness.
I walk out of the water elated. Exhausted. In state. I understand what it means to feel connected and to feel happy and I hope everyone gets a chance to feel this at some point in their life. To feel at one, in state and so, completely stoked.
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